Started off installing the outboard rib with the T410 reinforcing plate. The plate also helps cover the holes at the end of the rib to make it easier to seal. Basically you rivet the rib in place, then install the T-410 and rivet it in place with 5 AN470 (round head rivets) then the whole shebang gets slathered with a good coating of proseal.
Here's the rib after installing. The big glob of proseal near the root of the rib is covering a large (AN470-6) rivet that is filling a tooling hole. On the left tank I built a plate to cover the hole since I didn't have a big rivet. This is way easier.
From Right Fuel Tank |
This is a closeup of the nose of the outboard rib. The dots cover the rivets holding the reinforcement plate in place. The plate is installed on the inside.
From Right Fuel Tank |
This is the inboard side of the outboard rib. The T410 plate is visible at the nose of the rib. - |
From Right Fuel Tank |
Next step was to install the inboard rib. The inboard rib has a large hole cut out for an access plate that holds the fuel sending unit as well as the fuel pickup line. The rib itself has a hole for a vent line. The plate is installed with #8 nutplate to allow removal, as is the sending unit.
The installation is a repeat of the outboard rib, with the exception that in addition to the T410 plate there is a fabricated attach point installed on the outboard side that will later be bolted to the fuselage.
From Right Fuel Tank |
Once the outboard rib was finished, it was time to start final preparations for closing up the tank. First I test fit the fuel pickup tube and vent line attachment to the T708 plate.
From Right Fuel Tank |
Outside view of the same installation. This will be the inboard side of the tank. The larger blue tube is the main fuel line which will route to the tank select valve in the cockpit. The smaller blue tube is for the tank vent. The fuel sending unit will be installed in the open hole in the middle.
The fuel sending unit is a standard Stewart-Warner. You need to cut and bend the float wire to shape to fit it to the tank.
Here's the float wire bent to shape and installed.
Test fit the vent tube, cut it to length and flared the end. (note to self: I WILL NOT FORGET TO INSTALL THE NUT AND FLANGE BEFORE I PUT THE TUBE IN!!)
Test fit the T708 end plate and fuel pickup tubes. Deburred the antirotation bracket and test fit it.
Countersunk the holes for the nutplates on the T708 plate and riveted them into place.
Removed all the masking and vinyl tape from the inside of the tank. Started a thorough cleaning of everything prior to closing the tank up. Hopefully next week I'll be able to finish up the details and install the baffle plate.
From Right Fuel Tank |
The fuel sending unit is a standard Stewart-Warner. You need to cut and bend the float wire to shape to fit it to the tank.
From Right Fuel Tank |
From Right Fuel Tank |
Test fit the T708 end plate and fuel pickup tubes. Deburred the antirotation bracket and test fit it.
From Right Fuel Tank |
Countersunk the holes for the nutplates on the T708 plate and riveted them into place.
Removed all the masking and vinyl tape from the inside of the tank. Started a thorough cleaning of everything prior to closing the tank up. Hopefully next week I'll be able to finish up the details and install the baffle plate.